Pinot Noirs of the World at Vintage Conservatory:
Thin Skins and Deep Pleasures
By Pauline Couture
On October 21, 2013, members of the Toronto Chapter of IWFS were treated to a tour de force – a world tour of pinot noir by our accomplished Cellarmaster, Marcel Bregstein. We met in the artfully hidden Vintage Conservatory, a place where great wines are stored to prolong their lives, and to be enjoyed by member-connoisseurs.
The evening began with a tutored tasting of pinot noir – a complex, temperamental, thin-skinned varietal that takes on such different characteristics depending on the terroir where it grows and the vinification techniques used.
We sampled California’s Donum Estate Carneros Pinot Noir 2006, Oregon’s Delinea 300 Pinot Noir 2010, Australia’s Kooyong Pinot Noir 2005, France’s Domaine Nudant Pinot Noir Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2005 and New Zealand’s Villa Maria Single Vineyard “Seddon” Pinot Noir 2007 – wines ranging in bottle price from $21.15 to $79.95, but all delicious.
Marcel walked us through the great versatility of pinot noir, its liquid silk texture and the great range of wonderful food matches it can handle, from grilled salmon, shark and swordfish to roast beef, mushrooms, beets, lamb, pheasant and duck, in preparations either simple or rich.
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Following the tasting, around Vintage Conservatory’s generous wooden table for 25, we sampled the cuisine of Andrew Carleton Smith, who owns the facility with his partner Constantine Patiotis.
During the tasting, Andrew made available a generous selection of French cheeses and sausages. The unusual first course of long-cut bone marrow with toasted baguette delighted the members. It was followed by a vegan truffled mushroom bisque whose rich, thick texture felt deceptively meaty and creamy. Andrew assured us that it contained nothing but long-roasted vegetables.
The main course of a ground veal meatball over duck-fat poached fingerlings and bacon, topped with gruyère and a vermouth demi-glaze made for a lot of happy faces around the table, and the whole matched divinely with the various pinots left from the tasting.
The cognac crème brulée was the finishing touch of a memorable evening. Unfortunately, due to the popularity of the event, some members could not attend as it was sold out.
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