This wine letter goes out to nearly 20.000 Bordeaux Wine Lovers all over the world!
Bonjour Wine Lover,
This edition of the Bordeaux Wine Magazine is dedicated to the Bordeaux vintage 2013. It was a challenging vintage to produce and as it turns out it’s a challenging vintage to sell as well. The wines from 2013 were the most heterogeneous lot I have ever experienced. We tasted some fairly good ones and sometimes even very good. Outstanding wines, of which we saw many in the last decade, are hard to find in 2013. Some were even downright disappointing. We can say this was a technical year and a year of terroir and that of the winemaker. A vintage like this would have been a complete disaster, say 20 years ago. With today’s knowledge and technology a vintage like this can be saved but it will never be outstanding. Having said that, there are some gems to be found in what will be an early drinking vintage.
This is the suits and ties issue. Margaret and I went to all major properties in Bordeaux to taste the 2013 for you and we had to dress the part. Don’t worry, no suits and ties on our wine tours, just great wine, great food, great fun and great people. We are very thrilled to announce what is probably our most exiting Bordeaux Wine Tour schedule ever. Many of you plan well in advance to visit the exciting Bordeaux region so check it out because spots are selling fast.
Next year is too for away? We have some last spots for 2014 on the Grand Cru Harvest Tour in September for you. Grab them while they are still available because this is a great experience.
Please follow this news Letter http://www.bxwinex.com/bordeaux-wine-magazine-archive/item/329.html Air-conditioning in all rooms at Chateau Coulon Laurensac
The horrors of renovating in France are behind us now. The last hole that had to be drilled for the air-conditioning, went right through an electricity cable. Of course this happened 10 minutes before the long weekend of May. We were in the dark at some parts of the chateau during the weekend but today everything has been repaired. So we are ready for summer and our guest can enjoy the comfort of air-conditioning in all rooms. You can see pictures of our chateau accommodation here.
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I’d love to hear your comments on this Bordeaux Wine Magazine. I write about subjects I hope that interest you. Please let me know if I am on the right track or tell me what other kind of articles you would like me to include. Please be specific. Don’t be shy, I can handle both critical sounds and suggestions. You can find some older Wine Magazines in the Bordeaux Wine Magazine archive.
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Don’t drink anything I wouldn’t drink!
Cheers from Bordeaux,
Ronald Rens, M. Sc., Wine Master
Wine writer and President
The Bordeaux Wine Experience
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The Grand Tour of Bordeaux is a tour where the main focus is on the wine. We guarantee that you will see and taste all 5 First Growths plus Yquem. But the food is spectacular as well. And your palette will be pleasantly surprised with Michelin rated dining and exclusive meals at Classified Growths.
The Bordeaux Grand Cru Tour is a food & Wine Feast that includes a market visit, a cooking class and gourmet meals at different venues. Our guests always agree that the wines are spectacularly paired with the food.
But there is more: we have included superb tastings at properties like Mouton Rothschild, Haut Brion and Yquem and other hand-picked outperforming properties! But it goes on: On the Bordeaux Grand Cru Tour, guests indulge in daily Chateau lunches and memorable dining experiences.
The vintage 2013, some facts
The vintage 2013, challenging but both terroir and hard work paid off
Let’s cut to the chase; 2013 is nowhere near 2009 or 2010. The weather conditions that create outstanding vintages were just not there. If you wanted to write a book on difficult growing conditions and vine diseases and other problems, 2013 would be the year to do this.
After one of the wettest winters on record the spring had a hard time coming through. The temperatures remained lower than usual and the rainy conditions persisted to escort the vines through the start of their growing cycle. The late budding resulted in an equally late flowering in again very unfavorable weather conditions. This resulted in a strong state of coulure: a failure of grapes to develop after flowering (shatter in English). Coulure is triggered by periods of cold, cloudy, rainy weather. Flowers stay closed and are not fertilized. Thus the vines are not pollinated and the grape fails to develop and falls off. Coulure can also cause irregular bunches of grapes which are less compact than normal. These complex weather conditions are ideal for mildew and gray rot and other vine miseries.
July and August gave above average amounts of sunshine, which allowed the vines to catch up a part of the late start. September came with new challenges. Paradoxical this month was warm and damp at the same time. Warm sunny weather with frequent small burst of rain. This is ideal for grey rot and botrytis.
The botrytis is what they need in Sauternes but what is feared in all other vineyards.
Pierre Lurton, who manages both Yquem in Sauternes and Cheval Blanc in Saint Emilion, was said to be torn between happy and sad. In the morning at Yquem het would rejoice with his team about the development of the botrytis. In the afternoon at Cheval Blanc he would be chairing a crisis meeting with his team on how to prevent the same botrytis.
It came as no surprise that 2013 is a great vintage for Sauternes with of course Yquem leading the pack.
Money, knowledge, experience and terroir
A vintage like 2013 is a vintage of terroir. Only the best land produced good wines. And even with terroir you needed to work very hard.
Steven Spurrier of Decanter Magazine (R): “There is
much to like in 2013 as long as you select
the right wines”
Philippe Dhalluin of Mouton Rothschild compares 2013 with the 1992 vintage (a notoriously difficult vintage in Bordeaux). But nowadays we know better how to react and “save” such a difficult vintage. But he remains a faithful to the concept of terroir.
Dhalluin: “Terroir was everything. But we still needed all our experience. I lived through the 1992 vintage and now we know we have to pay attention to many details. This year we had to be very reactive. During the harvest we had to bring in a small army of pickers to bring everything in before the rains came.”
Not the vintage of the century
2013 won’t be the vintage of the century. But we shouldn’t forget that some very good wines were produced. And the good news is that you won’t have to wait 10 years for them as they will be drinking early.
Pricing is hard in a difficult market
It is hard to find the right price level for the wines in vintages like this. In the top vintages everybody wants to buy at almost any price. And in top vintages there are not many problems in the vineyards and producing wine is relatively easy. More often than not the yields are relatively high.
Alfred Tesseron of Pontet-Canet (R): “I should
have communicated better about my reasons
to release so early”
In difficult vintages like 2013 the yields are low (see above) and you need all knowledge, experience, money and manpower to produce something decent. As a result these wines are often much more expensive to produce. And harder to sell.
The image of the vintage 2013 was very bad, even before anybody tasted anything. This made Alfred Tesseron of Pontet-Canet to release his wine even before the tastings. This was frowned upon by the trade but after tasting his wine I understand his point. For me Pontet-Canet was one of the best wines of the vintage. As you might know, Pontet-Canet works biodynamic. Looking at my tasting notes I saw what I had written down: “If being biodynamic can make wines like this in a vintage like 2013, then why isn’t everybody working biodynamic?”
The Pontet-Canet was one of the few samples I actually swallowed…
2013 First Growths: my judgment
Chateau Lafite Rothschild 2013
With Charles Chevalier of Lafite Rothschild (L): “Some
years we feel sorry that the harvest is behind us;
this year we just wanted to get it over with”
Carruades de Lafite
(17 points)
An intense purple color. Discreet but elegant nose. Elegance and freshness combined with a strong acidity. Decent length.
Chateau Duhart Milon
(18 points)
Deep ruby color with hints of purple. A complex and elegant expression on the nose. Surprising feeling of ripeness, a rare commodity in this vintage. Soft and elegant tannins. Great freshness without a dominating acidity. Good length.
Chateau Lafite Rothschild
(18.5 points)
A beautiful intense almost ruby black color. A discrete but very complex expression on the nose. Ripe, beautiful red and blackcurrant fruit. Round with great length and elegance. Good precision. A very well-made Lafite that will be drinking very well in the next 10-15 years.
Chateau Latour 2013
Pauillac de Latour (16 points)
A shiny light color. Very discreet nose with some hints of cassis. Pleasant juicy fruit. More than half of merlot in the blend.
Les Forts de Latour (17 points)
A deep dense purple color. A discreet nose with hints of some spices and some red fruit. Decent length.
Chateau Latour, Grand Vin
(18.5 points)
Deepest purple color of the three. Rather closed expression on the nose. Beautiful expression of the fruit and good length. Incredible power for such a difficult vintage.
Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2013
Philippe Dhalluin (R) of First Growth Mouton
Rothschild proudly holds his issue of
Wine Life Magazine containing Ronald’s
four page cover-article on Mouton.
Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild
(17.5 points)
A medium dense ruby color. An expressive nose with red fruit, hints of pepper and bell pepper. Great freshness.
Chateau Mouton Rothschild
(19 points)
Remarkable clear deep ruby color. Subtle nose with hints of (black) fruit and spices and even some coffee and (dark) chocolate. Elegant velvety tannins. Exemplary length for the vintage. Definitely one of my top three wines of the vintage. Philippe Dhalluin and his team made great use of their new vat room and outperformed in this difficult vintage. Well done!
Aile d’Argent, the white wine of Chateau Mouton Rothschild (18 points)
A pale yellow golden color. An incredibly expressive nose with loads of complex aroma’s of citrus fruit. Buttery and great freshness. You don’t want to taste this wine, you want to drink it. Probably one of the best Aile d’Argents I have ever tasted. On par or even better than the excellent 2012.
Chateau Margaux 2013
Corinne Mentzelopoulos of Chateau Margaux (R):
“The merlot suffered a lot. We had to be very strict
in our selection.”.
Pavilion Rouge de Chateau Margaux
(16.5 points)
A light ruby color with hints of purple. A discreet fresh nose with elegant hints of fruit. A well balanced wine that will provide pleasure in the next 8- 10 years.
Chateau Margaux, Grand Vin
(18.5 points)
A slightly deeper color than the Pavilion. An expressive nose with some floral and chocolate notes. Good freshness with a good balance between the acidity and tannins. 80% new oak for this vintage.
Pavillon Blanc (18 points)
This white wine of Chateau Margaux is, as always, made of 100% Sauvignon Blanc.
A delightful pale yellow color. An interesting and expressive nose with strong citrus fruit (grapefruit) Maybe because we tasted in the Orangerie the citrus fruit showed this well…
Great minerality and even some saltiness. Great length. Well done!
Chateau Haut Brion 2013 (red wines)
We tasted the Haut Brion in the tasting room in a tower at the chateau. From here you have a lovely view over the vineyards.
Traditionally at a tasting like this you start with the red wines. Unlike at a dinner party where the white wines are served before the reds.
Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion
(16.5 points)
A deep intense purple color with a very discreet nose. Good freshness and strong acidity. adequate length.
La Mission Haut Brion
(17.5 points)
An intense ruby purple color and a rather reserved nose. Nice red fruit and a strong acidity. Sample was strongly influenced by the wood. A bit severe but with a good length and complexity.
Le Clarence de Haut Brion (16.5 points)
Intense purple color but very discreet on the nose. Good freshness. More approachable than the Chapelle. Drying out slightly towards the end. Strong acidity and decent length.
Chateau Haut Brion (18.5 points)
A dark and intense color, the darkest of all. A very nice expressive nose with loads of black fruit and spice. Impressive complexity and a backbone of beautiful elegant and soft tannins. The harvest at Haut Brion was a run against the weather. Continuing harvesting over the weekend, including Sunday, clearly paid off. Well made.
Chateau Haut Brion 2013 (white wines)
La Clarté de Haut Brion
(17 points)
A pale golden color. A pleasantly expressive nose with lots of citrus fruit. Nice freshness.
A pleasing wine with a reasonable length.
La Mission Haut Brion Blanc (18 points)
This wine used to be called Laville Haut Brion. As of 2009 it is labeled La Mission Haut Brion Blanc.
Delicate pale light yellow color. An expressive nose with delicate subtle floral hints. The wine shows a very pleasing freshness and great length. Well done!
Haut Brion Blanc (19 points)
Delicate nose with floral and citrus notes (grapefruit). Soft, elegant, delicate and just delicious. Incredible length. One of the winners of the vintage. Very well done!
2013 the other crus, my judgement
Médoc
Tasted at Chateau Marquis de Terme, Chateau Lagrange and at Chateau Lafon Rochet
Batailley, Pauillac, 5th Growth 16.5 Lagrange, St Julien 3rd Growth 16
Belgrave, Haut Medoc, 5th Gr 16.5 Langoa Barton, St Julien, 4th Gr 16
Beychevelle, St Julien 4th Gr 16.5 Lascombes, Margaux, 2nd Gr 16.5
Branaire-Ducru, St Julien 4th Gr 16 Léoville Barton, St Julien 2nd Gr 17
Brane-Cantenac, Margaux, 2nd 16.5 Léoville Poyferré, St Julien 2nd Gr 16.5
Cantenac Brown, Margaux, 3rd 16 Lynch-Bages, Pauillac 5th Gr 16.5
Clerc-Milon, Pauillac, 5th Growth 17.5 Malescot St-Exupery, Margx 3rd Gr 16.5
Cos d’Estournel, St Estephe, 2nd 18 Marquis de Terme, Margaux, 4th Gr 16
So, what are you waiting for? Login to the system and buy cheap viagra in australia and live stress free. What Is the Sacroiliac Joint? The sacroiliac joint is usually felt on either the left or right side on the lower back region and around the upper portion of the groin, buttock or thigh; although, in some rare cases, that pain can be experience on both two sides of lower back region. buy viagra without consultation Cardiovascular Exercises If you are not in shape, then you can never have an active sex https://unica-web.com/films2005.xls order viagra online life. The problem is crucial as it do not get cure easily cialis canada no prescription and the traditional medicine which doctors used to prescribe for its treatment still comes in great cost. Cos Labory, St Estephe, 5th Gr 16.5 Palmer, Margaux, 3rd Growth 17.5
d’Armailhac, Pauillac, 5th Growth 17 Pichon Baron, Pauillac 2nd Gr 16.5
Du Tertre, Margaux, 5th Growth 16.5 Pichon Comtesse, Pauillac 2nd 16.5
Giscours Margaux, 3rd Growth 16.5 Prieuré-Lichine, Margaux, 4th Gr 16.5
Gruaud Larose, St Julien 2nd Gr 16 Phelan Ségur St Estèphe 16
Kirwan, Margaux, 3rd Growth 16.5 Rauzan-Gassies, Margaux, 2nd 15.5
Lafon Rochet, St Estephe, 4th Gr 16 Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, 2nd Gr 15.5
Les Pagodes de Cos, St Estephe 16.6 Ducru Beaucaillou, St Julien 2nd 17.5
Montrose, St Estephe, 2nd Gr 18 Talbot, Saint Julien 4th Growth 16
La Dame de Montrose, St Estephe 17 Alter Ego de Palmer, Margaux 16.5
Issan, Margaux, 3rd Gr 16.5 Pontet Canet, Pauillac, 5th Gr 18.5
Pessac-Léognan
Tasted at Chateau Malartic Lagravière
Red White
Bouscaut 16 Bouscaut 16
Carbonnieux 16 Carbonnieux 15.5
Carmes Haut Brion 16 –
Chantegrive 15.5 Chantegrive 16
Chevalier 16 Chevalier 16.5
Fieuzal 15.5 Fieuzal 16
Haut Bailly 16.5 –
La Louviere 16 La Louviere 16.5
Larrivet-Haut-Brion 15.5 Larrivet-Haut-Brion 16
Latour-Martillac 15.5 Latour-Martillac 16.5
Malartic-Lagravière 17 Malartic-Lagravière 17
Olivier 16 Olivier 16.6
Pape Clement 17 Pape Clement 17.5
Smith Haut Lafitte 17 Smith Haut Lafitte 16.5
Right Bank: First Growths A
Ausone 2013
Pauline Vauthier (L) of First Growth Ausone:
“2013 was a challenging vintage”
Chapelle d’Ausone (17 points)
Medium dense purple/red color. Pleasant nose with black and red fruit. Nice roundness and a good structure. Strong elegant tannins. Good freshness.
Chateau Ausone (18 points)
A deep concentration of purple red color. On the nose there is a nice bouquet of fresh fruit. Very ripe and elegant. Strong tannins that will permit some ageing for at least 10 years. Strong acidity.
Cheval Blanc 2013
Le Petit Cheval (16.5 points)
Medium dark color. Nice freshness on the nose but not very complex. A pleasant wine dominated by the fresh fruit. Acceptable length.
Chateau Cheval Blanc (18 points)
A sparkling ruby color. Rather closed on the nose but with some nice perfumes. Nice freshness and fruit. Not a blockbuster style. Elegance in style and in tannins. Good length.
Jean-Bernard Grenié of First Growth (A)
Angélus was happy to use his brand new
winery for this vintage
Angélus 2013
Carillon d’Angélus (16 points)
Medium deep color. Nice complexity on the nose. Good fruit and structure. Sufficient length for a second wine.
Chateau Angélus (17.5 points)
Nice medium dark color. A discreet nose with nice fruit tones. Very nice expression of the fruit. There is almost 50% Cabernet Franc in the blend. Fine elegant tannins that will permit some ageing.
Pavie 2013
Chateau Pavie (17.5 points)
Incredibly intense deep color, almost black. Rather discreet on the nose. Dark fruit but sample difficult to taste because of the strong influence of the barrels. Good decent length.
Vieux Chateau Certan (17.5 points)
A very reduced crop (just a quarter of the normal production of 4.000 cases). Beautiful red color. Rather discreet on the nose. Beautiful silky tannins. Good freshness thanks to a good acidity. Less complexity than in previous vintages.
Yquem 2013
Chateau Yquem (19 points)
Spectacular golden color. An extremely expressive nose with tropical fruit like pineapple, mango, apricot and peach. In the mouth it is one big party. The wine made me think of butterscotch. Strong sweetness but in perfect balance thanks to the acidity in the wine. We both drank our samples!
Right bank, the other crus
Right Bank
Tasted at Chateau La Dominique and Chateau Gazin
Saint Emilion Pomerol
Ausone 18 Beauregard 16
Angélus 17.5 Clinet 16.5
Balestard de la Tonelle 15.5 Gazin 16.5
Beau-Séjour Bécot 16.5 La Conseillante 16.5
Canon La Gaffelière 16.5 La Croix de Gay 16
Cheval Blanc 18 La Pointe 15.5
Clos Fourtet 17 Petit Village 16
Figéac 16.5 Vieux Chateau Certan 17.5
Franc-Mayne 15.5 Le Bon Pasteur 16
La Gaffelière 15.5
Laniote 16
Pavie-Macquin 16.5
Petit Cheval de Cheval Blanc 16.5
Quintus 16
Troplong Mondot 16.5
Trottevieille 16.5
Haut Simard 15
Moulin Saint-Georges 16
Simard 16
Bordeaux Wine Tour Schedule
2014
Bordeaux Wine Tour Schedule
The June Bordeaux Grand Cru Tour
June 9 – June 14
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The July Bordeaux Grand Cru Tour
June 30 -July 5
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The September Grand Tour of Bordeaux
September 1 – September 6
(Sold out!)
The Bordeaux Harvest Cooking & Wine Tour
September 22 – Sept 27
(Last 2 rooms available)
2015
Bordeaux Wine Tour Schedule
The May Grand Tour of Bordeaux
May 18 – May 23
The June Bordeaux Grand Cru Tour
June 8 – June 13, 2015
(Sold out!)
The July Bordeaux Grand Cru Tour
June 29 – July 4, 2015
The September Grand Tour of Bordeaux
August 31 – September 5, 2015
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September 21 – Sept 26, 2015
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