No One Can Agree on What “Homemade” Means
France’s new labeling law was doomed from the beginning.
By Marc Naimark
Home made France’s “fait maison” logo looks like a saucepan with a roof over it.
Photo illustration by Slate. Photo courtesy David McSpadden/Flickr Creative Commons.
As you enjoy your coq au vin this summer in a quaint Parisian bistro, you may find the staff even surlier than usual. The reason for restaurateurs’ consternation is a law that came into effect on July 15 intended to protect “real cuisine” from the onslaught of industrial food that’s served in up to 70 percent of restaurants in France, according to some estimates.